Wadi Rum

Our last day in Jordan. It will prove trying. We left early heading for Wadi Rum but not without the compulsory stop at a souvenir shop midway. Here sales were recorded by nationality. Presumably so the right guide got the right kick back.

Jordan is the land of speed humps. Every time the major highway passes a settlement there is a speed hump. A couple of times the driver did not see them until late and we did a rapid slow down. You get used to it. For reasons I cannot fathom, they don’t allow left hand turns off major roads in Jordan. They make you go past the intersection and do a U-turn then a right hand turn into the road you need. So it was for our turn to Wadi Rum.

The approach is through classic desert with sand and high cliffs. Then there is a small complex of buildings which the administrative centre where you buy tickets etc. We proceeded through and into the back of Toyota Hi-Lux 4-wheel drives. As we sat waiting I saw my camera battery was almost used. I had left my spare in the bus. I was given permission to return to the bus and get it. I ran back; perhaps not too wise in 35 degree heat. Of course the bus had relocated to the farthest point of the parking area. I did get the battery but in the process damaged a tendon in my leg which had me limping with a bit of pain.

There was zero safety in the Utes other than a canopy to keep off some sun.

We headed in convoy out into the desert. It was remarkably bumpy but quite striking and exciting. The first stop was to allow the young ones to climb a sand dune. The older wiser ones found the shade of eroded rocks. Our next stop was not far; some rocks with graffiti but not just any graffiti, this was a couple of thousand years old from the times of

camel trains on the Silk Road. Nearby there was a Bedouin camp where some took a camel train to the next stop, another Bedouin camp.

Here were invited in and given tea. It was refreshing but unlike any tea I have had before. We spent a long time here.

The girls were given the opportunity to have a Moslem experience and dress in a

Burqa. Anna looked quite fetching.

The ride back was bumpy but we all returned safely and boarded the bus to Aqaba. Our first stop was a cake shop. Many of our fellow travellers bought bags and bags, presumably for gifts. We bought bananas next door. From Ecuador and less than 1 AUD per kilo. Eventually we were taken into the heart of the city for free time. My leg was very painful and movement was restricted so we did not stray far. I enjoyed a real doner kebab. Anna was not prepared to take the risk.

After lunch we looked for a drink. Anna saw an hotel. We went inside and she asked for the bar. They did not understand so she asked for a beer. I nearly died. They laughed and said they did not have any – it is a Moslem country. We went to the coffee shop.

The real trial began when we returned to the bus. We had to leave Jordan, cross Israel and enter Egypt. Four borders – how much can a Koala bear? The Israelis are really dreadful and it takes so long to get past them. They really are a positive disincentive to visiting the country. The Egyptians and Jordanians are easy by comparison and they are still awful.

It took us 3 hours in terrific heat to finally get into Egypt where we bussed back to the original hotel in Taba. We remembered thinking on the outward journey that this “resort” would be a highlight and it would be all downhill from there.

Funny thing was that it was the worst hotel we stayed in. And this time it was worse. We had a much larger room but after 30 minutes the air-conditioning went off. I tried a few numbers and eventually found that 0 got me the reception desk. I complained. They would send someone to my room. It came on again and then off again. Anna rang. They would send someone straight away. It came on again.

We had some duty free beer but it was hot and the fridge was not high efficiency so I asked for a bucket of ice. They said they would look into it. 5 minutes later they rang back and said I should go to desko and I could have some for free. I asked where he was and was told to go to reception. I did and was sent through some doors. I found a person who told me the “disko” was closed. I told him I wanted a bucket of ice. He said he could not help me. I told him it was for my leg. He still could not help me. I said OK and limped away. He then said wait and got me a shopping bag of ice. It worked a treat and we enjoyed some lovely beers before dinner. The leg was left to fend for itself.

The meal was much the same as on the outward trip but this time we did not have the “all included” wrist straps. When I went to get a plastic glass of cordial I was told I would have to pay for it. I gave it a miss.

On returning to our room the air-conditioning was now cycling. On for 2 minutes, shut down and back on for 2 minutes. To heighten the effect, most of the lights cycled too. I rang reception and let them understand my feelings. They assured me it would be fixed in no more than 20 minutes. Amazingly it was.

Monday duly arrived and were bussed to Taba airport. Our first issue was that the immigration officer was not sure if we could go to Warsaw on Australian passports without a visa. We told him we could have free entry for 90 days but he remained unconvinced. We showed him a bunch of EU entry and exit stamps but he remained unconvinced. Eventually another official told him it was OK and we proceeded.

As I write this we are back on the aeroplane heading north. It will be good to return to civilisation.